Lunch on the run Gamblers subsidise almost every element of a visitor's life in Las Vegas, resulting in extremely cheap meals - but most of these take the form of hotel buffets with an uninspiring selection of dishes. It provides an excellent background on the growth of the city and is open daily 8.30am-4.30pm; adults $5 (£2.75). Art lovers will want to see the Guggenheim Hermitage Museum (001 702 414 2440; ) at the Venetian, open daily 9.30am-8.30pm; adults $15 (£8.40). No other investors thought so, which leaves the tower stranded. But if you take the lift to the top, you will find a mini-theme park with a high-altitude rollercoaster and a rocket-like ride that will catapult you a further 100ft into the sky. Take a view The Stratosphere Tower (001 800 998 6937; , open daily 10am-1am; adults $9/£5) is a forlorn monument to over-optimism - a needle that rises a quarter-mile above the surrounding desert and seemed like a good idea to fill the gap between Downtown and the Strip. And where there's a rainbow...The storm cascades down, casting the train into temporary darkness.

Inside, all is warm and comfortable, as you would expect from a train where little expense has been spared. Onboard television monitors keep passengers (well, empty seats) informed about the temperature and the expected arrival time in western Canada's largest city.Strangely, the stations on this stretch of track seem to be named after BBC Radio 1 DJs of the 1970s After Edmonds (as in Noel) comes Everett (Kenny). The latter is stocked with more than 130 malts and plays host to whisky weekends complete with tastings, distillery tours and a piped-in dinner.The Westin Turnberry Resort, Ayrshire, Scotland (01655 331000; ). Why go now? Why go now? This dazzling city takes tourism to its gloriously ludicrous conclusion. But it doesn't have to be the end of the line: you can always turn around, re-board The Cascades, and go straight back on the return spin along the edge of America.Further information on The Cascades rail trip from . No, thanks; Car 7 is quite big enough, I conclude, as the train creeps across the geriatric Fraser River Bridge that sealed the Seattle-Vancouver link almost a century ago.Vancouver's Pacific Central turns out to be an ignominious terminus for such a grand ride; it spends most of its life acting as a bus station.

Once over the border, staff hand out maps of Vancouver, which is a good way to divert your attention from the tedious suburbs of a great city.A sign by the buffet door suggests "Next time try business class". Approaching the international frontier you are urged to look right to the Peace Arch that marks the Canada-US border, then left to see the 500-ton white rock on the shore that gives the first town in Canada its name. The line wraps a broad arc around a bay strewn with industrial wreckage of timber and iron, then hoists itself high on a cliff for a final grandstand view of the American shoreline.The Cascades keeps delivering astonishing scenery, and the staff are keen that you make the most of it Throughout the ride they keep the commentary coming. A stray freight car announces the line to be the "Main Street of the north-west". No more.The train hurries on to Bellingham, the southern terminus of the Alaska Marine Highway - the ferry system that links the northernmost state to the rest of the US. Away to the east, a side order of mountains crowds on to the platter of the river basin. The plain is interrupted by spindly trees denuded by winter, and skeletal townships that allude to a lost America."Iron Horse Trading Post", promises a shack that has little to show besides a rusting pick-up.

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