From the moment you're greeted with a chilled mint-infused face-cloth and glass of fresh sorrel juice, you're imbued with a sense of wellbeing. This feeling is aided by a visit to the spa, which is accessed via a steep path with dreamy views of rolling hills - and three mahogany trees planted by supermodel Heidi Klum, another past guest. In 1987 the lodge was hooked up to electricity and, in 1988, hot water. Now there are 21 thatched timber cottages including the Treehouse Jacuzzi Suite - the choice of Cameron Diaz, Mick told me, when she flew in to lend her support to the battle to stop the controversial damming of the Macal River. Belizean environmentalists took the government to court to try to halt the project, as the upper Macal river was one of the largest wilderness areas in Central America and home to a number of endangered species, including jaguars and the only scarlet macaws in the country. (You might remember Craig Doyle and the BBC Holiday crew bumping into her while they were filming, and her agreeing to canoe down the river with him for the programme.)Today Chaa Creek, set in a 330-acre private reserve with a relaxed "no key policy", is a great place to unwind. The border posts are separated by just a few feet, but are a million miles apart in terms of style.
Guatemala's is a hole-in-the-wall affair, Belize's a spick and span modern office. From here another lodge on the route to Blancaneaux provides a worthwhile diversion.Chaa Creek was the first lodge to open in Belize and is owned by a British/American couple, Mick and Lucy Fleming. Back in 1977 they got chatting in a bar in Belize City to the owner of a run-down 140-acre farm in the Cayo district - and the rest, as the saying goes, is history. And then a couple more.Chaa Creek Cottages opened for business in 1981 - and a road was built two years later. At first they just ran the farm, growing vegetables and producing milk, yoghurt and cheese that had to be ferried down the Macal River to the little town of San Ignacio in a dug-out canoe.
However, travellers hearing about the place started to drop by, so the Flemings built a cottage for visitors. The site is enclosed by the larger Parque Nacional Tikal, a protected area of around 370sq km (roughly the size of the Isle of Wight). Clambering to the top of the pyramids that puncture the forest canopy, all you can see is a blanket of tree-tops.The drive from La Lancha over the border to Belize takes a couple of hours. The site, discovered in 1848, covers 16sq km and is dominated by five giant limestone temples, with many more still buried beneath mounds of earth topped by tangled vegetation and tree roots.
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